Hydrogels are formed by specific molecules able to self assembled thanks to covalent or weak interactions. This creates three dimensional networks that trap a large quantity of water. Covalent bonds lead to irreversible materials while Van der Waals interactions give reversible hydrogels1. External parameters’ change (pH, temperature) induces disruption of the weak interactions and a network’s expansion. It’s particularly this property which interests the cosmetic industry. These approaches are currently used for pharmaceutical applications such as diabetes treatment with self-control insulin’s liberation for example2. Amphiphile and bolaamphiphile compounds are well known for exhibiting hydrogel properties. In our case, these properties are brought by an original thiogalactolipids obtained thanks to biocatalysis. Through directed mutagenesis of the catalytic acid/base residue of the wild type glycosidase from Dictyoglomus thermophilum, hydrolysis properties of the enzyme were reduced favouring thioglycosylation reaction3. Physico-chemical studies such as electron microscopy (TEM, SEM), molecular organization (SAXS), thermal reversibility (RMN, DSC) were performed on this material. Active molecules were also trapped in the network to simulate a smart material. Furthermore, the thiogalactolipids could be hydrolysed by skin contact releasing an anti-pigmentation agent. Activity of the resulting thioglycosides was investigated and revealed promising results4.

Novel enzymatic thiogalactolipides owing revelant hydrogelation and cosmetic properties

2019 Spring National Meeting

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