Oxidative hair colorants impart irreversible damage to the hair's surface including (i) increased cuticle lifting, (ii) surface chemical changes, (iii) reduced contact angle, and (iv) removal of nature's covalently bonded protective F-layer (18-methyleicosanoic acid).  Correspondingly, colored hair requires more conditioning and we need to improve the hair condition from one hair coloring event to the next, i.e., long lasting conditioning.  To this end, a wide variety of functional silicones were evaluated on both colored and non-colored hair for durable hair conditioning.  Technical results show the need to select a functional silicone with a combined optimal polarity (quantitated via silicone/D2O interfacial tension & a solvent dilution turbidity method) and neat fluid viscosity.

Understanding physicochemical changes caused by oxidative treatment to design conditioners for colored hair

246th National Meeting (2013)

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