Skin aging signs are the result of the combination of several phenomena such as chronic exposure to exposome and the slowdown of repair processes and cell renewal. Identify an efficient natural ingredient, which can act both on the prevention of stress and on the stimulation of endogenous repair mechanisms, is a challenging target. Cereus grandiflorus belongs to the Cactaceae family (cactus). It is native from the desert regions of the Antilles, tropical America, and Mexico. Its flowers, sweet scented, bloom with white petals only at night during six hours. This medicinal flower is traditionally used to treat heart diseases. It is rich in sugars such as glucose, and fructose, amino acids, acids (citric, fumaric, malonic), alcaloids and flavonoids, which are known for their cosmetic properties. The present study aimed at evaluating the cosmetic benefits of this natural hydro-glycerin extract of Cereus grandiflorus flowers from Moroccan geographical origin. The measured cosmetic benefits of the ingredient were its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties as well the impact of the extract on keratinocyte metabolism and migration and corneocyte desquamation. In in vitro tests, this extract showed a broad-spectrum antioxidant action (Anti 1O2, OH°, anti O2°-, ORAC test). Moreover, it showed preventive effect on IL-6 release by keratinocytes in inflammatory state induced by phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate (PMA). This reduction of IL-6 release suggests a potential anti-inflammatory effect. Using the Mito TrackerTM red and green FM, we showed that this extract increases keratinocyte and fibroblast mitochondrial activities. In an artificial keratinocyte wound healing test, the extract stimulated cells migration. Finally, we demonstrated that the extract decreases the stratum corneum cohesion in an ex vivo skin model, presenting a similar peeling effect as glycolic acid.Taken together, these results suggest that the Cereus grandiflorus extract appears as a valuable cosmetic ingredient towards skin protection, recovery and refinement of skin texture.

ESDR147 - Cereus grandiflorus (Cactus) Flower Extract – A New Natural Skin Anti-Aging Ingredient with Multiple Properties

50th Annual Meeting of the European Society for Dermatological Research. VIRTUAL MEETING