The skin of the scalp has several unique features. Amongst them, the follicular density is very high, creating a dark, warm, and moist environment which could lead to hyperkeratosis (scaling), pruritus, alopecia, and signs of inflammation (erythema, purulence). It is known that the regular wearing of helmets in tropical environments and polluted cities or when practicing intense sports, as well as the daily wearing of scarves (Hijab, Burqa..) increase moisture and friction on the scalp. These two categories of population are thus prone to more frequent scalp disorders (itching, scales, and erythema) and may require specific treatment to soothe irritation. In this context, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics developed a pink berry (Schinus terebinthifolia Raddi) extract from a by-product of the fragrance industry, with strong anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant activities assessed on human hair follicle dermal papilla cells. Moreover, it is known that keratinocytes can be considered as itch generator cells and TRPV4 (Transient Receptor Potential Vanilloid 4) channels in these cells play a significant signaling role in mediating the histaminergic itch. In human hair follicular keratinocyte cultures, the pink berry extract was evaluated on histamine-induced interleukin 8 production, showing a clear and significant reduction (by 146%**). An antagonist of TRPV4 was also used as a control. These effects were confirmed in vivo, on 31 volunteers with sensitive scalp and wearing helmets or burqas most of the day, in a double-blind placebo-controlled trial. The effect of pink berry at 1% in a leave-on lotion was assessed with significant results on erythema, pruritus, and scalp flakes. The self-assessment confirmed these data attesting to a healthier scalp in comparison to the placebo. This clinical study highlighted the scalp disorders encountered by this specific population. The pink berry extract, thanks to its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-itching activity, is an innovative solution to alleviate their symptoms.

ESDR338 - Scalp disorders when the head is covered most of the day: An upcycled pink berry extract to the rescue.

50th Annual Meeting of the European Society for Dermatological Research. VIRTUAL MEETING