The loss of elasticity is a characteristic feature of skin aging. Indeed, elastic fibers are poorly renewed and are degraded much quicker than synthesized. To compensate for this imbalance, a unique extract from the traditional ayurvedic plant Murraya koenigii was developed. First, a proteomic study combined with bioinformatics, revealed that monolayer cultures of human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) treated with M. koenigii extract expressed increased levels of dermal proteins involved in the maintenance and integrity of the extracellular matrix. More specifically, we demonstrated that M. koenigii was able to significantly increase the synthesis and in situ deposition of elastin (+43%), fibrillin-1 (+22%) and fibulin-5 (+62%) in monolayer cultures of HDF. As both epidermis and dermis are required for proper elastic fiber formation, these results were further confirmed in a full-thickness 3D reconstructed skin model, (+103% elastin, +35% fibrillin-1 with M. koenigii extract). The plant extract also significantly reduced elastic fiber degradation by inhibiting MMP-12 elastase activity (-27%). To control both structural and functional quality of elastic fibers neo-synthesized in the presence of M. koenigii extract, we developed a 3D scaffold-free spheroid microtissue, in which the elastic fiber network was characterized using two-photon autofluorescence (2PAF) imaging. Based on 2PAF image analysis, the dermis microtissue treated with M. koenigii extract exhibited a denser and more mature elastic fiber network. Regarding the biomechanical properties, we showed using atomic force microscopy (AFM), a 3-fold decrease in the relative dermal stiffness after treatment with M. koenigii. The 2PAF and AFM combined analyses allowed to draw a correlation map of apparent elastic modulus and elastin deposit density, which revealed that elastin-rich areas were less stiff. To conclude, M. koenigii extract displays undeniable elasticity boosting properties, highlighted at molecular, cellular and tissue levels, and appears as a powerful anti-aging ingredient.

ESDR354 - Unexpected elasticity-boosting properties of a traditional ayurvedic plant

50th Annual Meeting of the European Society for Dermatological Research. VIRTUAL MEETING