For the first time, retinol has been associated with Vitreoscilla filiformis extract (a probiotic fraction with regenerative properties). The efficacy of this new combination was assessed in vitro and confirmed in clinical trials. Normal human keratinocytes were treated or not with Retinol (0.1 µM), Vitreoscilla filiformis extract (1.4 x 10-4%) and their combination for 24 hours. Gene expression was then evaluated by RT-qPCR. In addition, clinical trials were performed to evaluate the benefits of the mixt ingredients (0.25% and 1% respectively) in a cream on Caucasian and Asian women from 20 to 65 years old using Dermal torque meter, Transepidermal water loss and chloride dansyl. Then clinical studies have been conducted to evaluate wrinkles and skin homogeneity. Retinol inhibited the expression of transcript involved in keratinocytes differentiation (CALM5, CASP14, KRT10, SPRR1A, SPRR1B, TGM1) while stimulating others linked to proliferation (KRT19) and innate immunity (S100A7, DEFB4A). Vitreoscilla filiformis extract potentiates the effect of Retinol on keratinocytes by amplifying, in a synergic way or in additive way, expression of transcripts linked with epidermal renewal (HAS3, MMP3, KRT19 expression). In addition, Vitreoscilla filiformis extract also able to reverse some negative effects of retinol on keratinocytes differentiation by increasing the expression of FLG, LOR, CDSN and EPVL. The formula containing the combo shown an improvement of epidermal renewal while reinforcing the barrier function as predicted in our in vitro study. In addition, this original combo decreases wrinkles visibility, dark spot, improved skin tone evenness, smoothness and improve skin firmness. Vitreoscilla filiformis extract act as retinoid-multiplier effect by improving effect of Retinol and by reversing inhibitory effect of retinoids. At the end, the combo improves parameters decreased during aging and decrease skin aging signs.

Amongst anti-aging agents, retinoids are amongst the most well-known ingredients. For the first time, retinol has been combined with _Vitreoscilla filiformis_ extract (a probiotic fraction known for its regenerative properties). The efficacy of this new combination was assessed _in vitro_and confirmed in clinical trials.
Normal human epidermal keratinocytes were treated or not (Control) with Retinol (at 0.1 µM), _Vitreoscilla filiformis_ extract (at 1.4 x 10-4%) and their combination for 24 hours. Gene expression measurement was then performed using two-steps RT-qPCR. In addition, several clinical trials were performed to evaluate the benefits of the mixt ingredients (2.5% and 1% respectively) in a cream (O/W) on Caucasian and Asian women cohorts. Healthy volunteers aged from 20 to 65 years old were evaluated using Dermal torque meter, Transepidermal water loss and chloride dansyl. Then clinical studies have been conducted to evaluate several wrinkles and skin homogeneity parameters using validated skin atlases (Forehead wrinkles, glabellar wrinkles underneath eye wrinkles crow’s feet wrinkles, upper lip wrinkles nasolabial fold), scale 0-9 (skin tone evenness, smoothness, dark spot) followed by a self-perception questionnaire of performance efficacy.
Retinol inhibited the expression of transcript involved in keratinocytes differentiation (CALM5, CASP14, KRT10, SPRR1A, SPRR1B, TGM1) while stimulating others linked to keratinocytes proliferation (KRT19) and innate immunity (S100A7, DEFB4A). This profile may predict an effect on epidermal renewal. _Vitreoscilla filiformis_ extract potentiates the effect of Retinol on keratinocytes by amplifying, in a synergic way or in additive way, expression of transcripts linked with epidermal renewal (HAS3, MMP3, KRT19 expression). In addition, _Vitreoscilla filiformis_ extract is also able to reverse some negative effects of retinol on keratinocytes differentiation by increasing the expression of FLG, LOR, CDSN and EPVL. The formula containing the combination shown an improvement of epidermal renewal while reinforcing the barrier function as predicted in our _in vitro study_. In addition, this original combination of actives decreases wrinkles visibility and dark spot and improved skin tone evenness, smoothness as well as skin firmness.
_Vitreoscilla filiformis_ extract acts as a retinoid effect multiplier by improving the effect of Retinol on proliferation/epidermal renewal and by reversing inhibitory effect of retinoids on differentiation. At the end, the combination improves parameters decreased during aging and decreases skin aging signs.

ESDR244 - Retinol and Vitreoscilla filiformis extract, a new synergic complex for anti-ageing skin care benefits

The scientific meeting of the European Society for Dermatological Research (ESDR) is held yearly, usually in September. With an international attendance of more than 1000 skin scientists from around the globe, the four-day event includes short oral presentations from peer-reviewed abstracts, keynote lectures from international experts, sponsored symposia, satellite programs, educational events as well as an important focus on posters, networking and building collaborations amongst scientists. For more information about this year’s meeting visit our website.