Enlarged pores is a common anesthetic skin issue mainly driven by excessive parakeratosis, loss of mature collagen and poor extracellular matrix (ECM) renewal. These events conduct to premature ageing with hyperdifferentiation and fragile and coarse dermis. A combination including amino acids, copper, mannose-6-phosphate and lactic acid was designed to counteract the main causes of pores formation. Impact on parakeratosis was evaluated in vitro with genes expression analysis on keratinocytes and using a model of RHE with morphological staining and involucrin immunostaining. Impact on dermis fragility was evaluated with genes expression analyses on fibroblasts prematurely aged and on skin explants with enzymatically-degraded dermis. Mature collagen stimulation was evidenced on fibroblasts prematurely aged using immunostainings of collagen I and decorin. Clinical studies were conducted on two panels: Caucasian and Asian volunteers. Pores reduction was measured by VisioFace® and using ColorFace® after 56 days and 7 days of application, respectively. The active ingredient significantly prevented the parakeratosis induction, evidenced by the reduction of dead cells number in the stratum corneum and involucrin expression. Moreover, the gene expression analysis revealed a down-regulation of expression of genes involved in barrier function and up-regulation of genes involved in stem cells niche renewal. Regarding the reinforcement of dermis, genes expression of COL3A and ADAM2 were up-regulated whereas MMP1, 9 and 13 were down-regulated, showing a remodeling of the ECM. The expressions of various collagens were up-regulated on fibroblasts. The clinical study performed on Caucasian women demonstrated that the active reduced significantly the pores size compared to placebo. The study on Asian men revealed a significant 2.4-fold reduction in comparison with placebo. These results confirmed that reinforcement of dermis and paraketosis reduction is a powerful strategy to tighten enlarged pores no matter gender and ethnicity.

ESDR256 - Enlarged pore reduction by targeting parakeratosis and reinforcing dermal extracellular matrix

The scientific meeting of the European Society for Dermatological Research (ESDR) is held yearly, usually in September. With an international attendance of more than 1000 skin scientists from around the globe, the four-day event includes short oral presentations from peer-reviewed abstracts, keynote lectures from international experts, sponsored symposia, satellite programs, educational events as well as an important focus on posters, networking and building collaborations amongst scientists. For more information about this year’s meeting visit our website.