Dark circles are a cosmetic concern worldwide, often associated with tiredness or aging. Owing to its thinness, the highly vascularized eye contour area easily shows blood and lymphatic circulation disorders. Environmental stress alters skin microcirculation, endothelial barrier function and increases oxidation in the subocular area. The multifactorial nature of dark circles and puffiness represents a real challenge for in vitro efficacy testing of active ingredients. Therefore, to select an active ingredient with both anti-puffiness and anti-dark circle potentials, we have implemented a screening strategy that combined different biological models addressing relevant targets of skin microcirculation and endothelial barrier function. Using this screening approach on 22 plant extracts, we identified a particularly interesting plant extract which significantly reduced adhesion protein VCAM-1 synthesis in dermal microvascular endothelial cell cultures, significantly decreased leukocyte adhesion to endothelial cell membranes, while significantly increasing trans-endothelial electrical resistance. This ability to improve skin microcirculation was illustrated in a vascularized 3D dermis model stimulated with TNF-α, in which the plant extract was shown to restore the basement membrane of capillary-like tubular structures, as shown by laminin expression. Additionally, the extract also favored hemoglobin degradation by stimulating HMOX-1 mRNA expression in dermal fibroblast cultures. It also increased chelation of ferrous ions, hemoglobin by-products that increase skin oxidation. The stepwise selection model we used allowed us to identify a unique plant extract with promising anti-puffiness and anti-dark circle potential, based on combined proteomic, genomic and biochemical methods in acellular assays, 2D and 3D cell models. Dedicated clinical study will be used in the near future to demonstrate the in vivo benefits of the ingredient.

ESDR421 - A multiparametric, stepwise in vitro approach to identify anti-dark circle and anti-puffiness ingredients

The scientific meeting of the European Society for Dermatological Research (ESDR) is held yearly, usually in September. With an international attendance of more than 1000 skin scientists from around the globe, the four-day event includes short oral presentations from peer-reviewed abstracts, keynote lectures from international experts, sponsored symposia, satellite programs, educational events as well as an important focus on posters, networking and building collaborations amongst scientists. For more information about this year’s meeting visit our website.