Photoageing describes complex cutaneous changes that occur over time due to chronic exposure to solar radiation. All-trans retinoic acid (RA) is used as the clinical ‘gold standard’ for the treatment of photoaged white skin. Our recent work has identified that, despite high melanin content, black skin is also susceptible to photoageing; in particular, disintegration of the well-organised elastic fibre network containing fibrillin-rich microfibrils (FRMs). Thus, we investigated the potential of topical RA and a cosmetic retinol (ROL) product to remodel photoaged dermis, particularly FRM, in chronically sun-exposed black skin. We used the Manchester Patch-Test Assay to examine the histological effects of 0.025% RA (n = 6; 4-day application due to irritancy of RA) and ROL (n = 6; standard 12-day treatment protocol for a cosmetic) on the extensor forearm (under occlusion) of healthy but photoaged black volunteers (> 45 years). Skin biopsies were obtained from occluded, untreated baseline and treated sites and processed for histological assessment. Treatment with RA and ROL produced significant epidermal thickening (P < 0.001 and P < 0.01, respectively) accompanied by a significant increase in keratinocyte proliferation (P < 0.01) as compared to untreated baseline control skin. Significant dermal remodelling was identified following treatment; with restoration of the FRM network in the superior papillary dermis apparent for both RA (P < 0.01) and ROL (P < 0.001). This study confirms that topical RA has utility for the repair of photoageing in black skin and that a cosmetic ROL product induces comparable effects on epidermal characteristics and dermal remodelling. Deposition of FRMs following retinoid treatment suggests that both agents studied may be beneficial in the treatment of photoageing in black skin. Further investigation of their efficacy in daily use is warranted across the pigmentary spectrum.

ESDR515 - Topical retinoids for the treatment of photoageing in skin of colour

The scientific meeting of the European Society for Dermatological Research (ESDR) is held yearly, usually in September. With an international attendance of more than 1000 skin scientists from around the globe, the four-day event includes short oral presentations from peer-reviewed abstracts, keynote lectures from international experts, sponsored symposia, satellite programs, educational events as well as an important focus on posters, networking and building collaborations amongst scientists. For more information about this year’s meeting visit our website.