The hair follicle (HF) undergoes cycles of growth (anagen), regression (catagen) and rest (telogen) phases. Chronic and reactive hair loss are linked to dysfunctions of the hair growth cycle. The association of active ingredients targeting specifically the HF could help to restore hair cycle and promote hair growth. The efficacy of 3 active ingredients was evaluated on hair growth/anchorage markers in human HF dermal papilla cells (DPC): a new extract from Silybum marianum (SME) stimulating hair shaft anchorage by keratin 75 modulation, Manganese PCA (MnPCA) and a Lespedeza capitata extract (LCE). Antibody array and gene reporter assays allowed to analyse receptor tyrosine kinase phosphorylation and Wnt/β catenin pathway. ELISA tests were performed to quantify the release of Versican, VEGF and DKK1. 5α-reductase (5αR) activity was also measured. The anti-hair loss serum containing these active ingredients was then evaluated ex vivo on human full-thickness scalp skin model to investigate its ability to improve HF growth. In DPC model, SME activated growth factor receptor signalling pathways (EGFR x1.9 and PDGFR x2.8 respectively) and their downstream effectors (ERK, GSK3, Akt, STAT x1.2 to 2). MnPCA induced Versican (x33) and VEGF (x3.3) secretion, but also Wnt/β catenin (+80%). LCE reduced DKK1 release (-72%) and 5αR activity (-60%). In the scalp explant model, the anti-hair loss serum stimulated hair shafts production (+102%) and significantly prolonged anagen phase by improving hair cycle score and stimulating hair matrix keratinocytes proliferation. Thus, SME, MnPCA and LCE displayed complementary anti-hair loss properties. The interest of combining these 3 active ingredients was confirmed in a human scalp skin model by using a serum that improved hair growth and prolonged anagen phase.

ESDR586 - Interest of Silybum marianum extract, Manganese PCA and Lespedeza capitata extract in a new anti-hair loss serum to stimulate hair growth and prolong anagen phase

The scientific meeting of the European Society for Dermatological Research (ESDR) is held yearly, usually in September. With an international attendance of more than 1000 skin scientists from around the globe, the four-day event includes short oral presentations from peer-reviewed abstracts, keynote lectures from international experts, sponsored symposia, satellite programs, educational events as well as an important focus on posters, networking and building collaborations amongst scientists. For more information about this year’s meeting visit our website.